Day 1
Headed for Manila-Basco Flight 122, my parents, Ninang Patria, cousin Amanda and I left our dear Bulacan home as early as 3:30am. We waited until 6:15 for the 42 seater Asian Spirit plane. I was expecting a rough ride, but to my amazement this small plane braved the sky’s clouds as steady as it could be. (On a side note, one must forget Asian Spirit’s overpriced fare that would forever fail to equalize its daily serving of a MACAPUNO-flavored Fudge Cake and a small size of cheese-flavored Oheya junkie while the plane’s aircon literally sneezed a combination of air and ice to the shock of their dear passenger’s shaking knees and nose in cold.)
After two hours of my freezing hands’ revolt, we finally arrived the Batan Island of Batanes. Even before landing on this island, you could take a glimpse of nature’s majesty from the airplane. And the second thought that would pop out of your head (the first being a “wow thought”) after your foot touches the Batan land is “where the heck is the airport?” Alas, the airport is under construction and the runway automatically becomes the three-dimensional airport. We met our tour guide Ms. Juliet Ponce-Cataluna and went straight ahead to Batanes Resort. “Above” the resort, you could see cows on top of the hills and “below” it is the beach with its blue minus the overcrowded Boracay wannabes. Peaceful. Yes, it is.
We went first to Valugan Bay where it’s as if rocks of various shapes and sizes measured each other’s features to form one orderly line of least to greatest. We saw an elderly woman who was wearing a vakul, a headgear used by the Ivatans to protect them from rain, wind and sun. Even if Mrs. Rodriguez’s already 85 years old, she’s still very strong and even carried her animals’ food on her back and walked for several miles everyday. I was so fascinated with her headdress that we asked her to pose with us at the camera. She was very friendly that she even invited us for the wedding of her daughter. Still with a sharp memory and witty sense of humor, she said that she poisoned her husband after my crazy father kidded that she killed her husband.
the very friendly Mrs. Rodriguez
Before continuing writing about our quest, my notebook says that Batanes is proud to say that it has a 97% literacy rate. And because I spent my 4 days there, I randomly checked the claim and I’ve concluded that this land’s the land of intelligent people. Conversing with them’s enjoyable, Ivatan-style—without pretensions, full of sense and humor. Oh, and my notebook says that Arius originally came from its mother Batanes (and if you do not know what arius is, it is a slow-growing tree often turned into a bonsai tree). Another interesting thing about Batanes is that they only have less than 17,000 people living there (inclusive of a large chunk of its population currently residing in Manila for education). Years ago, when they still had no electricity at night, their population was bigger and gin consumption was much higher. With the glory of lights at night, energies were saved and vented out for other purposes, deflating the magnanimous birth rate. Ivatans are hard-core beer fanatics because of its cold weather and lack of recreational activities. Red Horse and Gin bottles could be seen everywhere even at the beach! An Ivatan told us that during gin shortages, the price of gin could rise upto P50. And one time, on the way to Itbayat, Ivatans had to reduce the ship’s capacity for them to survive. Oh hell yeah, the Ivatans threw sacks of rice instead of their gins! Precious, indeed. But one could not spot beer bellies on them! Ivatans are very thin and on our 4 days stay there, we only spotted 1 fat man. Biking and walking must be their age old secret for their disguised beer bellies. (Less than 50 tricycles, cars and jeepneys combined can be found in Batanes.) Bikes and motorcycles are everywhere.
Batanes is often mistaken as the land of typhoon but our tour guide insisted that only 3-5 typhoons pass by its land every year. Strong winds in Manila are not considered as strong in Batanes. They only consider typhoons as such when it makes banana trees fall (thus, the term Banana typhoon!). Filipinos oftentimes disregard Batanes as part of the country. When drawing our maps, who’d think of drawing small dots on top of Ilocos? People would always suppose that Batanes has no civilization when in fact, civilization can’t always be equalized to automation or the number of malls, theatres or Malates a place has. Supposing that civilization is equated to technological progress, many Batanes households have Dream cable access and internet access. Many Ivatans are also addicted to texting. Many people still think that Batanes has no electricity, etc. The notion that Batanes has no civilization should be corrected. People there are more civilized than people from Manila. They are educated, honest, cultured, polite, have uncompromising principles and are proud of their roots. I’ve never encountered people who are so proud of their town and country. And that I think is the authentic meaning of being “civilized.”
Back to our adventure, we stopped by Vayang Chadpidan after watching dead fishes be dried by the sun and the breezy skies of Valugan Bay. Vayang is an Ivatan term for the storage of pig’s food while Chadpidan means West. Like 1+1, because the splendid lush green hills form a Vayang and the sea faces the Chadpidan, it is called the Vayang Chadpidan (heehee). It was so windy and sunny at that time so my long capiz earrings tortured my ears. The view was breathtaking, allowing you to take a peek of haunting cliffs, raging waves of the sea, green grasses, wild flowers and cows and their newly laden manures. I desired to roll down the abundant hills but black doses of manure killed my poise. Our tour guide said that Human and Bench models shot their pictorials there years ago so I posed like a mongrel blown by the wind.
After that, we climbed to the top of the Basco lighthouse at Naidi Hills to take a peek of Basco to its 360 degree view. Opposite its aqua blue seas and fishermen’s ships defying the morning current is Basco’s small white cemetery. Mt. Iraya and Mt. Matarem can also be seen from the lighthouse. Limitless mountains, rocks and colors of the sea would strain your thirsty eyes.
We went to Radyo ng Bayan afterwards because Ms. Juliet has a radio shift from 11am-12pm. We instantly became her radio guests after my father said that I have a talent in radio speaking (whatever that means). Ms. Juliet’s weekly program is about eco-tourism so as first-time visitors, we had enough to say. I enjoyed speaking on air and became an instant Batanes endorser. They said that the show was broadcasted nationwide so my Dad backed out while the four of us enjoyed the show’s music and talking. DWBT’s broadcasting room was so small and is simpler than the Metro’s radio stations. We were very surprised that Ms. Juliet is a very talented broadcaster even if her looks seemed to be simple. She talked with a lot of sense and remarkably said that Ivatans must think twice on selling their lands because it is a great tragedy to be a stranger to one’s own land. Compared to Boracay or Cebu, Batanes can be perceived as “out of civilization” because it is behind commercialism. But even if it lacks McDonalds we are accustomed to, it was successfully preserved by the Ivatans to its finest green and was passed on to its own sons and daughters. The Ayalas and other Taiwanese tycoons have tried to buy hectares of Batanes lands but the Ivatans were intelligent and rejected their millions. And now, Ivatans are all proud of their clean and well-preserved land achieved through their utmost cooperation and love for their own lands.
After becoming part-time broadcasters, we ate our first Ivatan meal at Doques’ Grill Haus at Kaychanarian, Basco, Batanes. We ate dorados, beef, potatoes, pineapples, chicken and broccolis. Ivatans’ way of cooking is simple yet delicious. Their beef’s ultra soft and tasty. After that, we rested for two hours in our rooms.
most dishes are served with onions
splashing waves
We went to Mahatao View Deck afterwards were about 200 stair steps would weaken your knees. The view was very spectacular as aqua blue, strong blue, dark blue, light blue, green blue and other blues parade your eyes. Big rocks, small rocks, medium-sized rocks, rocks with a pinch of fresh salt and rocks pasted with corals stood to its glory as bubbly waves dramatically pushed the brawny rocks. After that we went to the Mahatao Municipal Hall where they charged us P200 each. Our guide and mother contested about that saying that the new ordinance wasn’t amended yet. Anyways, we agreed to pay after talking to the Mayor and after receiving free hats.
We went to San Jose Borromeo Church (a small Church) and the Sumhao Wind Power Plant (where they paid a French company millions of pesos). At the Wind Power Plant Site (the first commercially operated wind-diesel power generation project), we saw how the windmills were automated by the refrigerator-like machine. A kind family living near the site gave us free sack full of corn, freshly harvested from their land.
Mahatao Lighthouse
After that, we went to the Mahatao Lighthouse (and you’ll get tired of Lighthouses in Batanes!). We also saw how Ivatans use hedges as divisions of their lands and as their protection from strong winds.
nice house of the late Pacita Abad
Next, we saw the beautiful house of the late painter Pacita Abad. Made of stones intricately designed, her house stood on top of one of the many hills of Batanes. On its sala, several rocking chairs are there, as if welcoming everybody to sit down and take a look at her paintings and the magnificent view outside. Her paintings (on canvas and plates) reportedly cost hundreds of thousands of pesos. We picked some fresh cherry tomatoes and lettuce outside her house (and it tasted bitter!).
Ate Juliet picking lettuce and tomatoes
A few walks from her house is Secretary Florencio Abad’s house. Oh, the Abads love rocking chairs! Their house’s a beauty. Wow! From its walls to the wild lilies, the house looked so lovely!
We did not stop by the Radar Tukon since it was cloudy that day so viewing the outstanding sunset was impossible. We went back to the Batanes Resort and walked down the beach. We talked to a fisherman who was fixing his net at the beach. I also collected beautiful shells lying on the unnoticed sand while the sun finally bid its goodbye. Manda and I videoked afterwards. What’s Up, Nandito Ako, Mandy Moore’s hoorahs, My Way, Zombie and other songs were turned into a noise barrage at the isolated land of Batan. We ate another unforgettable meal afterwards.
Day 2
We woke up early for the 6:30am departure of the fallowa from Batan Island to Sabtang Island (fallowa’s a passenger ship while tataya’s for fishing). To our horror, the resort’s kitchen was still closed so we had to wake up the staff of the resort. Our breakfast was served late so we arrived late at the San Vicente Port in Mahatao. Fortunately, our tour guide arrived at the Port early so the ship’s driver (who’s currently the best fallowa driver of the universe) was forced to wait for us. The fallowa’s unusually shaped like a pea. On the way to Sabtang, the fallowa impressively danced with the very strong waves of the sea. Though it slowly travelled for thirty minutes, it had successfully demeaned the giant waves.
We were expecting a bright and sunny Sabtang but it was cool and windy when we arrived there. We saw a Church that was built in 1844. Old strong houses made of corals, lime and rocks were everywhere. Roofs are made of at least 1 foot thick cogon. Windows and doors are smaller than the usual modern house’s. Their houses are very small compared to our houses today. They do not even have a sala or toilet bowls on their lavatories. What could have happened to us if we still live as simply as their Ivatan ways of living? Paano nga kung “ mababaw” pa rin ang ating mga kaligayahan? Ivatans seem to find happiness in everything, even on the basic things in life. As we urban folks often equate happiness to splurging money for some brand new cars, Ferragamos and Rolexs, they find profundity in a community night of sharing with bottles of beer, talks with strangers that would last for several hours, throwing nets at the wild sea and spreading Batanes’ beauty to tourists. “Never in excess.” Ivatans seem to possess only what they truly need in life. They’d harvest fishes and vegetables that are only sufficient for themselves even if they could catch more than their weekly harvest. Ivatans are satisfied with their ordinary possessions in life, veering away from commercialism’s materialistic motto.
cogon with at least 12 inches of thickness
BIG WHALE'S HEAD
Dr. Florentino Hornedo's ancestral home
After that, we rode the municipal’s one and only vehicle. We went to baranggay Savidug (meaning talisay) where we saw the big whale’s head (that looked like white wood) and the ancestral home of Dr. Florentino Hornedo (the author of many Ivatan books). On the way to baranggay Chavayan, we saw Idjang (fortress that was built during the Stone Age). We saw several pandan trees, food of the delicious coconut crab.
a dose of animal manure
We stopped by a hill overlooking magnificent tall cliffs, limitless waters of the sea, goats, cows and rich explosions of animal manure. Because of the strong wind, my hat (lovingly decorated with gumamelas and wild flowers) was blown away to the sea! We went to the baranggay Chavayan where we met another old woman wearing a vakul.
We went to the house of Miss Emilia (I forgot her surname), the famous maker of vakul. (It costs P400). I wanted to buy it but it would be hard to carry it on the airport. So we asked Miss Emilia if we could pose with the vakuls on top of our head. She said, “bakit naman hinde!” Vakuls are very hard to make and it would take a week for 1 vakul to be finished.
ako bilang nasiraang Ivatan
Mr. Ireneo Hornedo, famous maker of talguongs
We also stopped by Mr. Ireneo Hornedo’s house, the famous maker of talugong (hand-woven hat (?) na heavy-duty :) ). He’s already 90 years old but he still continues to make talugongs. Again, talugongs are hard to make and would take a week. (It costs P500-P800.)
After that we went to baranggay Malakdang (meaning NorthWest) where we swam at the Nakaboang Beach, saw the Nakaboang Ark and Cave. (Nakaboang means pick up… because there are a lot of rocks to be picked up there) The beach is very clean. Even if the current’s strong, I enjoyed snorkelling at Sabtang. Fishes of varied colours, corals and several rocks could be seen from below. Shells are also beautiful!
the retired fallowa and the retarded
coconut crab galore!
After swimming, we went to Lilia and Milfa’s Eatery where I ate one of the most delicious meals I’ve tasted in my life. They served us coconut crab (my golly, its aligue’s the best!), pink buko, flying fish with eggplant, dorado, chicken, beef, Batanes valenciana and bananas.
splash came the waves!
After witnessing a live cow that would soon be a beefy beef dragged unto the fallowa, we road Divine Grace fallowa. The ride in the afternoon was much bumpier than in the morning. I sat at the front for the fun of it. I’ve never encountered waves as big as those in Sabtang! But the fallowa is a mighty hero. It danced and ignored the magnanimous waves. I enjoyed riding the boat even as the waves splashed me with its salty water. I felt like I rode EK’s log jam. Tita Patty got dizzy and was on the verge of vomiting while Mang Romy displayed his devilish smile (hehe).
Back to Batan Island, after changing clothes at the Resort, we went to the National Commission on Indigenous Peoples’ Office where we saw its museum’s display of pasahuren (jar used for gathering water), padapaday (jar used for burial), husong, plantsa, batulang nu baka/ pagad, tavayay hatawen (floater for storing wine), tavayay for catching flying fish, ahu and husong, talugong, vakul, hammerstones that are around 2000 years old, upo (water container) and other pictures exhibiting Ivatan’s culture and pride. I also learned that there are four kinds of houses in Batanes—beaterio, maytuab, sinadumparan and chivuvuhung/jinjin. The differences? I cannot remember, hehe. We went to St. Dominic de Guzman Parish Cathedral afterwards then went to a souvenir shop beside the Ivatan Lodge. I ordered a Batanes hat (with a flower) while my Tita Patty bought some delicious Batanes mani (sugar-coated) across the street. We went to Ate Juliet’s office afterwards because our travel agent in Manila fooled us. Our flight to Manila wasn’t confirmed after all. And the stupid Asian Spirit staff in Manila assured us and said that we should have our tickets stamped at Basco. Horror’s in the air! The plane’s already fully booked ‘til June 2005. I did not panic since getting stranded in this beautiful island for two months is an adventure! But my parents have a scheduled trip to France after 14 days. My Tita has other appointments while Manda has an exam the next week. They went panicky as we all tried to trace Beth of Causeway Tours’ motive of her evil act. So the generous Ms. Juliet helped us by contacting other plane offices—the dreaded Pacific Air and Chemtrad. But the cost is expensive and they only have Basco-Laoag/Tuguegarao flights. That was double horror for us because we had to take the 10 hours++ bus trip after riding the hell 1.5 hours 8-seater plane ride. Horror ended when they announced that the planes are also fully booked ‘til the end of May. So that means that we are stranded on this island until we find our luck as chance passengers of Asian Spirit.
Since we do not have much money (knowing that the tour package’s already full-board), we planned to conserve everything since we do not know when we could go back to home sweet home. We had to conserve money and clothes. We joked that we should wear only one underwear for every four days or worse, one underwear for 1 month. Hehehe! We went back to our Resort as we imagined months of Ivatan experience and being not able to go home. (And that’s a great idea for me for that meant that my last week of vacation would be prolonged and my first date of employment be postponed!) We talked of possible lawsuit and complaint reports to Causeway Tours. As Metro Manila went panicky of a supposed massive destruction to Manila and Quezon City caused by an earthquake, we were merry in this island—far far away from the Metro.
We lazed on the sand, beside nature’s joy of rocks and shells. The afternoon expired its warmth as clouds hid the sun’s stardom and as waves heeded our prayers of a timely return. The peaceful sound of the sea reminded me that everything would be fine, nothing is to be feared. Batanes is at its best to comfort our fears. Ivatans welcomed us to sleep at their houses would weeks of being stranded push through. Never fear for when you’re in Batanes, you would never get hungry—lobsters, coconut crabs, lettuce, tomatoes, blue marlins, dorado, beef, flying fishes, sea urchins, etc. are all available. We videoked the night away.
Since Tita Paty has to go back home on Monday, my Dad planned that we go to the airport the next day since we have to get the “chance” of being chance passengers as soon as possible. In short, Tita Paty and Manda had to shorten their paid trip to Batanes. Since we could only go back home if someone would back out or be late, we thought of nerve wrecking scenarios. What if only 1 can fly tomorrow, who would it be? What if 2, 3… who would stay in Batanes? Hehehe. Poor Papa, he’s last of our priority list since he’s the only male in our group. We semi-packed our bags since we might get lucky the next day.
